IJCLab CNRS Nucléaire et Particules Institut Pascal

The birth of the Universe

Dialogue Between Worlds


Cosmic inflation: the rapid expansion that shaped space and time.


Piece resulting from the dialogue between María Belén Lovino, Panni Margot and Yann Mambrini.

Scientists Tell Their Story

Cosmic Inflation

Cosmic inflation describes the extremely rapid expansion of the universe in the first tiny fraction of a second after the Big Bang. During this phase, space itself expanded exponentially, stretching microscopic quantum fluctuations into the seeds of the large-scale structures we observe today: galaxies, clusters, and voids.

Inflation explains several puzzles of the early universe, such as its remarkable homogeneity, the flatness of space, and the absence of unwanted relics predicted by particle physics. The rapid stretching also amplified tiny fluctuations in energy density, setting the stage for all subsequent structure formation.

The Cosmic Microwave Background

About 380,000 years after the Big Bang, the universe cooled enough for photons to decouple from matter. This released the Cosmic Microwave Background (CMB), a faint glow of radiation now observed across the sky. The tiny variations in temperature and polarization encode the distribution of matter and the initial conditions seeded by inflation.

By studying the CMB, scientists can infer the density of ordinary matter, dark matter, and dark energy, as well as the universe's geometry and expansion rate. It is a crucial observational cornerstone linking the first instants of cosmic expansion to the structures we see today.

From Fluctuations to Galaxies

The quantum fluctuations amplified during inflation eventually became the gravitational seeds around which matter gathered. Over millions of years, regions slightly denser than their surroundings attracted more matter, growing into stars, galaxies, and clusters.

Dark matter, though invisible, played a critical role in this process. Its gravitational pull accelerated structure formation and shaped the cosmic web — the vast network of filaments, voids, and clusters observed in the large-scale distribution of galaxies.

The Expanding Universe

The evolution of the universe from its birth to today is best described today by the Lambda-CDM model, which combines ordinary matter, dark matter, and dark energy. Observations of galaxy distributions, supernovae, and the CMB show that the universe has been expanding for 13.8 billion years, with dark energy now driving an accelerated expansion.

This framework allows scientists to connect the earliest quantum fluctuations to the observable universe, creating a coherent story from the birth of space-time to the large-scale structures we can map and study.

The Designer Lends His Voice

The dress from the "Dialogue Between Worlds" collection evokes the birth of the universe through cosmic inflation. Its wide skirt mirrors the exponential expansion of space, while each printed layer traces the formation of structure from quantum fluctuations into the galaxies and clusters that fill the cosmos.

Starting at the model’s womb, the fabric visually narrates the emergence of space and time. The upper portion of the dress remains empty, hinting at the mystery of what existed before the universe began. Through form, pattern, and movement, the garment transforms abstract cosmological processes into a tangible, experiential representation of the early universe.

The viewer is invited to experience the unfolding of spacetime itself — a fusion of physics and fashion that turns the invisible, high-energy origins of our cosmos into a visual and emotional encounter.

Cosmic Inflation Dress
Design inspired by the first moments of the universe, translating cosmic expansion and early structure formation into fashion.

Credits:

Fashion creation: Panni Margot
Scientific mediation: María Belén Lovino, IJCLab, IN2P3/CNRS
Cosmology researcher: Yann Mambrini, IJCLab, IN2P3/CNRS
Design and production assistant: María Paula Villamizar
Produced during the 2025 Astroparticle Symposium at Institut Pascal
Funding and exhibition: Institut Pascal, Paris-Saclay University